Posted by leinosaur a.k.a. el curioso (68.92.114.77) on January 02, 2005 at 02:50:22:
In Reply to: Re: Bolted Anchors at Quartz posted by Lefty on January 01, 2005 at 18:29:54:
1. physics tutor
2. semi-autobiographical narrative
to-wit:
What is it about the East Atlantic that causes folk to second-guess bolt anchors? First 3-bolt & now this . . .
Regarding Romper Room's rap rings, berkly & I spent a few hours in the presence of said anchor on Friday 12/31/04, having bid farewell to '04 on 3-bolt & Romper Room, including a second pass at 3-bolt's 2nd pitch on TR just to enjoy the gearless crack in all its jammy glory.
So anyway I've been puzzling out the physics of those FIXE singlerings re. direction of force & leverage possibilities, and am not satisfactorily scratching that itch.
I'm specifically NOT QUESTIONING THE BOMBERNESS OF THE ANCHOR SYSTEM - on the contrary, it seems well-tailored to the angles involved and over-engineered strength-wise even taking potential leverage into account.
But what I'm wondering is: would the curve of the anchor-plate eliminate or at least minimize the potential prying-action that caused cupcake's concern?
I went to fixe's site seeking elucidatory beta but there wasn't anything in the way of explanatory diagrams. They seem to be of a mind with mh, as follows:
: "Know what I mean?"
: Don't know what you mean, Verne. Chill, the anchors are bomber.
: mh
But if any of you engineers or other physician-types care to diagram that curved plate or just share the physics, it would be fun to see.
EABPV request #2:
How weird is it that this question would come up regarding a belay station shared by old "3-bolt" herself, a route named after her original first-pitch belay station, which consisted of three bolts?
Though Terry cast some further light on the 3-bolt FA elsewhere (on this message board?), a more detailed narrative of the wild physics oats sown that day would be most welcome.
happy new year y'all!