Posted by Tony Wilson (204.95.146.59) on November 15, 2004 at 19:21:44:
In thinking about what Okieterry said below about having enough bolts on Baldy, I would also add that we need to go one step further and be willing to subtract some of the unapproved bolts if we decide they are detracting from the routes. If we want to have a credible long term strategy for Quartz we have got to be consistent in how we apply the logic. Additionally, who ever ends up on committees, or whatever is developed, must be able to not only explain our actions but also
be in a position to educate new climbers in why the routes are like they are and, hopefully, this will inspire these new climbers to perserve the traditions after a lot of us are too old to fart.
Ratzlaff made a good arguement about leaving Snakeshead alone. It definetly makes a climber step up and have a certain level of competence, with minimal real danger, in a very heady location. Its great training for easier mountain routes like the upper Exum on the Grand. I think having something like Monkey on a Football with 2 bolts gives a beginning leader a good stepping stone to Snakeshead. If you get this idea across to moderate climbers who want to move on to the Tetons etc. it gives them a reason to perserve a boltless Snakeshead. I think this would include removing the anchors at the top unless we needed to leave them for Cardinal Fang. This kind of route progression makes sense to me given the fact a large percentage of moderate climbers aspire to do easier mountain routes but probably will never go one to harder more dangerous climbing.
meatbird